Shrubs Turning Brown from the Inside Out

Normal Browning vs. A Real Problem

Seasonal Shedding That Is Normal

Many evergreen shrubs shed older inner needles or leaves each fall. Arborvitae, juniper, and yew often turn tan or yellow on the inside as they drop old growth. This natural shedding can look alarming, but it happens once a year and is evenly spread through the plant. Fresh green growth remains on the outer tips. If the browning occurs only on the innermost foliage, and your shrub still looks full and green on the outside, you are likely seeing normal aging.

Warning Signs You Should Not Ignore

Some browning patterns point to stress or decline. Watch for these red flags:

• Brown patches that expand and do not rebound in spring
• Entire sections, from inside to outer tips, losing color
• Brown foliage combined with wilted or brittle stems
• White, black, or orange spots on leaves or stems
• Webbing, frass, or visible insects
• Cracked or peeling bark at the soil line
• A strong musty or sour smell in the soil, which can signal rot

If you see one or more of these, your shrubs need attention. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can inspect, identify the root cause, and create a plan that matches your site and plant varieties.

Top Causes of Shrubs Turning Brown from the Inside Out

Water Stress: Too Little or Too Much

Underwatering dries out inner growth first, especially under dense canopies. Overwatering can drown roots and cause similar browning. Both issues often start near the trunk and move outward.

Signs to look for: Dry soil that shrinks away from the root ball, crispy leaves, or fine roots that break off easily point to drought. Constantly wet soil, algae on the surface, or a sour smell suggest overwatering and poor drainage.

How to fix it: Check soil moisture at 4 to 6 inches deep. Aim for even moisture, not saturation. Water deeply but less often, about once per week in average weather, so water reaches the root zone. Improve drainage with compost and graded beds. Avoid overhead sprinklers that keep foliage wet. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can tune irrigation and correct drainage to stabilize moisture quickly.

Root and Soil Problems

Compacted soil limits oxygen and water. Planting too deep suffocates the root flare. Mulch piled high against the trunk causes decay and invites rodents. Girdling roots that circle the trunk can cut off the flow of water inside the plant.

Signs to look for: A buried root flare, volcano-shaped mulch piles, stunted new growth, and decline that worsens year after year.

How to fix it: Regrade to expose the root flare. Pull mulch away from trunks and maintain a 2 to 3 inch layer spread like a donut, not a volcano. Aerate compacted soil and add organic matter. For severe girdling, expert root pruning may be needed. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can evaluate the root zone and take careful corrective steps.

Winter Injury and Salt Damage

Cold, dry winter winds pull moisture from evergreen leaves when roots are frozen and cannot replace it. This leads to inner browning and tip burn. Road salt and ice melt compounds can dehydrate roots and scorch leaves, often on the side facing streets or sidewalks.

Signs to look for: Uniform bronzing on windward sides, or a browning pattern that follows where salt spray lands or runoff flows.

How to fix it: Water well in fall before the ground freezes. Add 2 to 3 inches of mulch to insulate roots. Use burlap windbreaks for exposed evergreens. Replace sodium-based deicers near planting beds with safer alternatives, and redirect meltwater away from roots. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can design wind screens and recommend hardy plant placements for exposed sites.

Fungal Diseases

Several fungi cause inside-out browning. Needlecast in evergreens, boxwood blight in boxwood, and various twig blights thrive in dense, humid canopies.

Signs to look for: Discolored spots or bands on needles or leaves, black fruiting bodies, dieback that moves from inside to outside, and a pattern that persists even with good watering.

How to fix it: Prune to open the canopy and improve air flow. Remove and discard infected clippings, do not compost them. Water at the base, not overhead. In serious cases, targeted fungicides may help. Always start with a firm diagnosis. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can identify the pathogen and suggest a precise plan that fits your plants and local rules.

Insect and Mite Damage

Spider mites, scale insects, and borers can stress shrubs until inner leaves brown and drop. Mites are common on juniper and arborvitae. Scale affects many species, including yew and euonymus.

Signs to look for: Speckled leaves, fine webbing, sticky honeydew, sooty mold, and small bumps on stems that do not rub off easily.

How to fix it: Increase plant vigor with proper watering and mulching. Wash mites with a strong spray of water. Use horticultural oil or insecticidal soap when appropriate. For borers or heavy scale populations, consult a professional. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can time treatments to life cycles and reduce risk to beneficial insects.

Improper Pruning or Planting Location

Shearing evergreens too tightly prevents light from reaching the inner canopy. Over time, inner foliage dies. Planting a sun-loving shrub in deep shade causes thin growth and browning inside. Crowded plantings limit air flow and light.

How to fix it: Thin, rather than shear, to let light into the canopy. Move plants that are in the wrong spot or replace them with varieties that match sun and soil conditions. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can redesign overcrowded beds and recommend shrubs suited to your site.

Dog Urine, Mowers, and Weed Trimmers

Repeated pet urine near the base can burn roots and bark. Mowers and trimmers can nick stems and girdle the base. These injuries often show up as inner browning and weak growth.

How to fix it: Create small stone or mulch borders to keep equipment away. Train pets to use a different area. Rinse spots with water to dilute salts right after they occur. Install protective trunk guards if needed.

Herbicide Drift and Chemical Exposure

Weed killers can drift on the wind or move through the soil and injure shrubs. Look for odd leaf curling, cupping, or a sudden wave of browning after lawn treatments.

How to fix it: Follow labels exactly and avoid spraying on windy days. Use different nozzles for better control. If you suspect damage, water deeply and avoid further stress. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can suggest safer weed management near ornamentals.

Step-by-Step Checklist to Diagnose Browning

1. Look at the pattern. Is browning only on the inner foliage, or does it include outer tips and full branches?
2. Check moisture. Test soil 4 to 6 inches deep in several spots. Note if soil is dry, evenly moist, or soggy.
3. Inspect the base. Find the root flare, and look for mulch against the trunk, chewed bark, or fungus.
4. Scan for pests. Check needles and leaves for webbing, sticky residue, tiny bumps, or holes in stems.
5. Review recent weather and care. Heat waves, cold snaps, salt exposure, or new lawn treatments can trigger browning.
6. Prune a small sample. Cut a twig. Green and moist inside suggests potential recovery. Brown and brittle means dieback.
7. Take clear photos. Good pictures of the whole plant and close-ups help pros diagnose fast.

How to Revive a Shrub That Is Turning Brown

1. Correct watering. Deeply water once or twice per week depending on weather. Avoid daily light sprinkles.
2. Fix drainage. Add compost and adjust grading so water does not pool at the base.
3. Mulch properly. Spread a 2 to 3 inch layer out to the dripline. Keep mulch a few inches away from stems.
4. Prune dead wood. Sterilize pruners with alcohol between cuts. Remove brown, brittle branches back to live wood.
5. Thin dense canopies. Allow light and air into the center to reduce disease pressure.
6. Feed the soil, not just the plant. Use slow-release, balanced fertilizer or compost in spring. Avoid heavy feeding when stressed by drought or heat.
7. Protect from wind and salt. Add burlap screens for winter and switch to plant-safe deicers.
8. Target pests accurately. Use the least toxic option at the right time. Consider beneficial insects where possible.
9. Reassess placement. If the plant is mismatched to the site, plan to transplant or replace with a better fit.
10. Follow up. Monitor for new symptoms and regrowth. Healthy shrubs push new buds within a season.

Prevention Tips to Stop Shrubs Turning Brown

• Match plant to site. Choose species that fit your sun, soil, and wind exposure.
• Plant at the right depth. Keep the root flare at or slightly above the soil line.
• Water by the need. Adjust for rainfall, soil type, and season. Use drip irrigation when possible.
• Mulch the smart way. Maintain a consistent layer, not a mound against trunks.
• Prune with purpose. Thin selectively to allow light in. Avoid heavy shearing that shades the interior.
• Space plants well. Good spacing improves air flow and reduces fungal problems.
• Limit stress. Avoid heavy fertilizer during heat or drought. Do not prune late in fall before a hard freeze.
• Protect in winter. Water before freeze, add mulch, and shield exposed shrubs from wind and salt.
• Monitor monthly. Quick checks catch pests or watering issues before damage spreads.
• Schedule seasonal care. Work with Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery to keep a healthy rhythm all year.

Shrub-Specific Notes

Arborvitae, Juniper, and Yew

These evergreens shed inner foliage in fall. If the outer shell stays green and new growth appears in spring, shedding is normal. If entire sections are browning from inside to tips, recheck watering and look for spider mites or needlecast. Avoid tight shearing that blocks light to the interior.

Boxwood

Boxwood can brown inside due to winter burn, fungal issues, or dense canopies. Check for black streaks on stems and leaf spotting if you suspect blight. Thin the plant to increase air flow and avoid frequent overhead irrigation. Sanitation is key. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can help identify boxwood blight and suggest management options.

Rhododendron and Azalea

These prefer acidic, well-drained soil. Yellowing then browning can signal poor drainage or high pH. Add organic matter, test soil, and adjust pH if needed. Protect from winter wind and morning sun during cold snaps to reduce leaf scorch.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea can brown from drought, wind, or late spring frost that damages buds. Maintain even moisture and mulch well. Avoid pruning at the wrong time, since many hydrangeas bloom on old wood.

When to Prune and How Much

Evergreens

Prune lightly in late spring or early summer after the first flush of growth. Avoid cutting into bare wood on most evergreens, since many do not push new shoots from old stems.

Deciduous Shrubs

Spring bloomers like lilac, forsythia, and some viburnum should be pruned right after flowering. Summer bloomers such as spirea and panicle hydrangea can be pruned in late winter or early spring. Remove dead wood any time.

Rules of Thumb

Do not remove more than one third of the shrub in a single season. Make clean cuts just above a bud or branch union. Step back often to keep the natural shape. If you are not sure, Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery can create a pruning plan that protects bloom and structure.

When to Call a Professional

If your shrubs turning brown show rapid decline, large dead sections, or complex patterns that do not match the common issues above, it is time to bring in help. A professional eye saves time and reduces the risk of wrong treatments. At Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery, we diagnose problems across soil, roots, water, light, pests, and pruning history, then build an action plan that fits your budget and goals. Our team can also recommend plant replacements if a shrub is beyond recovery, so your landscape continues to thrive.

About Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery

Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery has deep roots in the Chicago area. The company began in 1966 when Paul, known as Poul, Kjeldbjerg launched the business after emigrating from Denmark. What started with one employee, a pickup truck, and a trailer has grown into a full-service landscape company and nursery. The family has worked from home basements and barns, planted fields of trees and shrubs, and steadily expanded services for homeowners across the region. Today, with nursery operations in Wadsworth and offices in Long Grove, the team blends horticulture knowledge and practical field experience. Whether you need plant health care, drainage solutions, seasonal color, or even holiday lighting, Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery is ready to help you care for every part of your outdoor space.

Why Your Choice of Partner Matters

Healthy shrubs are not an accident. They reflect smart plant selection, careful planting, balanced watering, and timely care year after year. When shrubs are turning brown, quick online tips only go so far. The right solution depends on your soil type, sun and wind exposure, irrigation, and even nearby hardscape. Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery looks at the full picture, then treats the cause, not just the symptom. From soil testing and root care to precise pruning and disease management, our approach builds resilient plants that can handle Midwest weather swings.

Get Help Today

If you are worried about shrubs turning brown from the inside out, act now. Catching problems early often means simple fixes and fast recovery. Take a few photos, walk through the diagnostic checklist, and reach out to Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery for guidance. Our friendly, professional team will help you identify the cause, restore plant health, and prevent future issues. Your landscape can bounce back with the right plan, and we are here to make that happen.

Healthy shrubs frame your home, add privacy, and raise curb appeal. Do not let hidden stress undo years of growth. With a careful diagnosis and a clear plan from Poul’s Landscaping & Nursery, you can stop the browning, encourage new growth, and enjoy a vibrant landscape again.